Yellow Crookneck Squash

Yellow Crookneck Squash

This page provides instructions and photos on How to Grow Yellow Crookneck Squash. We will be using the Yellow Crookneck  which is a summer squash, pictured above.

Summer refers to when it is grow and eaten. Winter squash is still grown in the summer time but harvested and eaten in the winter.

The Yellow Crookneck OG is a choice eating quality.

Many choose this strain as the best yellow variety for buttery flavor and firm texture. Big plants are late to begin bearing, but then yield consistently over a long picking period. Best picked small, 4-5" long. Organically grown.

Days to Maturity: 58

CULTURE: Yellow Crookneck Squash likes fertile, composted, well-drained soil.

DIRECT SEEDING: Sow beginning in late spring after danger of frost, when soil temp. is minimum 62° for treated seeds and 70° for untreated seeds. Seeds will rot in cool soil, especially cool, wet soil!

Sow 2-3 seeds every 9-12" (thin to 1 plant), 1/2-1" deep; or sow about 4" apart (thin to 1 plant/ft.), rows 5-6' apart.

ROW COVERS: AG-19 (heavier grade) floating row covers will provide about 4° of frost protection, and add warmth for vigor and earlier harvest.

DISEASES: If the first few fruits wither, blacken, and/or fail to enlarge, it indicates absence of pollination, remedied when male blossoms appear and provide pollen. Virus diseases tend to be cyclic; watch for resistant varieties.

Downy mildew may occur in cool, damp weather, powdery mildew in hot, droughty periods and in the fall. Till in the vines before winter or remove and compost mildewed plants. Copper fungicides offer some control.

INSECT PESTS: Protect young plants with floating row covers. Cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and vine borers can be a challenge. Rotenone and pyrethrin offer some control. Squash bug eggs laid on underside of leaves may be located and crushed. Keep borders well mowed.

For vine borers, use rotenone around the base of young plants. Cut borers out of vines and hill soil over the wound. Clean up refuse in the fall, and spring-plow the ground to bury the pupae.

HARVEST: Harvest regularly, 2-3 times a week depending on age of plants and growing weather. Pick the vegetables when they are about six inches long and 3/4 inches in diameter. Letting them get bigger than this will affect the taste.

STORAGE: Refrigerate at 32-50°F and high humidity to store 1-2 weeks. Can also be canned but not as good as fresh.

April

Below is a picture of my Yellow Squash seedlings. So far they are coming along all right.

Yellow Crookneck Squash growing in our garden.

May

Below are pictures of our yellow squash.

The first one is a squash on the vine.

The second is what it looks like harvested. I like to pick mine when they are small and tender. Others like to wait until they are larger.

When it comes to vegetables, larger is not necessarily better.

Yellow Crookneck Squash growing in our garden. The first squash appears.
Garden fresh yellow crookneck squash and green beans picked from my garden!

May

Below are some pictures of our Yellow Crookneck squash buds. Soon we will be enjoying some summer squash. Soon after than we will have so much coming out our ears that we will try to give it away to our friends.

There is also a flower that has been pollinated in the first picture.

There are some flowers waiting to be pollinated as well.

Yellow crookneck squash flowers in my garden.
Yellow crookneck squash from my garden.

How to Grow Yellow Crookneck Squash

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Return from Yellow Crookneck Squash to Garden Fresh Vegetables

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Germination Tips

When starting seeds, the most important thing to remember is not to plant the seeds too deep. Believe it or not, less than 1/4 inch deep into the dirt will do.

The seed is a living embryo that contains enough energy to germinate and break the surface. But if planted too deep, it will run out of energy and die before it breaks the surface.

Keep the soil moist, but not wet, with a temperature of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Over watering will drown the seed. Here is a good rule to follow: The dirt should be moist like brown sugar up to the first knuckle of your finger. If it is dry frolike salt, the dirt is too dry for your seeds to germinate. If it is wet like cake batter, then it is too wet.

The best watering is bottom watering. Put your starter pots in a tray and let them soak up the water they need until they germinate. Pour the water in the tray, not in each pot. Watering the top of the pot can dislodge the germinating seeds and kill them.

Seeds should germinate in about 7 to 14 days, and sometimes even 21 days, depending on the seed type.

If you are starting your seeds indoors, seeds need 12 to 14 hours of daylight a day. A grow light will be needed. A regular florescent or lamp light will not do the job.

This means you will need to make a small investment. Putting your pots on a window sill will not work in most cases. If the seeds do not get enough light, they will grow tall and thin and then die.


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